Housing:

• A baby iguana may be kept in a 10-gallon glass aquarium but will soon require a larger enclosure.
• A 29-gallon aquarium is suitable for a juvenile iguana, but eventually a custom built room sized cage will be required.
• The top of the enclosure should be made from coated wire to allow the passage of heat and light and to provide ventilation.
• If the enclosure is to be used outdoors it should not contain glass or plexi-glass and thought should be put into the fact that even small gauge wire can filter out natural sunlight and UVB ray.
• Don’t use screen wire on any enclosure to prevent the iguana from rubbing its nose which can result in nostral abrasion or nose rub.

Lighting:

• Iguanas require a light cycle of 12-14 hours per day.
  
• Provide the iguana with a commercial 50 watt basking bulb placed 6 inches from the top of the enclosure and mounted in a standard clamp type light fixture from any hardware store.
  
• Exposure to natural sun light is both physiologically an psychologically beneficial and should be provided as often as possible since we as humans cannot duplicate the sun in and artificial environment.
  
• NEVER PLACE AN IGUANA OUTSIDE IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT WITHIN A GLASS AQUARIUM because this has the same effect as a magnifying glass in the sun and can quickly turn an aquarium into an oven.
  
• Always provide some shade for the iguana to help prevent overheating.

Temperature:

• Iguanas are ectothermic (regulate their body temperature using an external source of heat) and bask in the sun to thermo regulate.
  
• Providing these reptiles with a "Hot-Rock" or a heat pad placed under the enclosure does NOT allow the iguana to raise its body temperature to 10 degrees above the maximum heat level of the heating devise.
  
• THE HEAT SOURCE SHOULD NEVER BE PLACED INSIDE THE ENCLOSURE OR WITHIN DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE ANIMAL.
  
• Maintaining the proper temperature also plays a key role in treating illnesses in captive iguanas.

Diet:

• Iguanas are herbivorous in the wild, but have been known to eat almost anything in captivity.
  
• Iguanas require a diet that is high in Calcium and low in Phosphorous, but in order for an iguana to absorb calcium they must be provided with a source of vitamin D3.
  
• The diet should consist of Collard greens, Turnip greens, Mustard greens, Dandelion greens, and both Mulberry and Hibiscus.
  
• Spinach should be AVOIDED because it binds calcium. Other vegetables to AVOID are Cabbage and Broccoli because they inhibit thyroid production.
  
• Crickets and meal worms will be readily accepted by iguanas, but offer little nutritional value and have a hard exoskeleton that may cause intestinal blockages that could lead to constipation or prolapse.